Curious stuff, Oil. If it weren’t for the contaminants from the combustion process that corrupt it, metal from engine wear and debris from wet clutches, it would almost last forever. In the first of our DIY series, aiming at refreshing your memory on best workshop practice, we show you a quick, correct oil change.
As it degrades, the ability of the oil to provide a load-bearing film between components lessens. As the lube wears the upper number of the designation denoting its viscosity – ‘40’ in a 10W40 oil, say, measured at 100°C – gets lower, along with its ability to do its job. Let’s explain the rest of the designation while we’re at it. For 10W-40, "10" describes the oil’s thickness when cold, and "W" denotes winter – ie. sub-zero temperatures. The smaller the lower number, the easier it flows when cold – but the quicker the oil wears out.
So because oil wears out, regular changes are vital. The debris in the oil will hopefully be stopped by the filter but eventually this too requires changing.
Tools For the Job ? Torque wrench. Socket for drain plug. Strap wrench or cup-type filter remover. Tools for fairing fasteners. Oil drain tray. Jug. Funnel. Carb cleaner or similar. Shop towel or rag. Paint pen or liquid paper.
Cost ? Depends. The Motul 5100 Semi Synthetic 10W40 for Kawasaki ZX-6R was £37.95 for four litres. A genuine filter is £8.90 and a drain plug washer is 37p.
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| Remove the bellypan to allow access to the drain plug and to make it easier to remove the filter without pouring old oil everywhere. Place the bodywork somewhere safe so you don’t end up standing on it or kicking it. > Let the engine run for a few minutes, remembering that warm oil flows quicker than cold. Position the drain tray and remove the bike’s filler cap, then carefully undo the drain plug having first cleaned off the area around its head. |
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| The drain plug has a magnetic insert to attract ferrous deposits in the oil. Small particles are alright. Be suspicious of anything large or shiny, however, which might suggest internal issues.> Remove the old washer from the drain plug and throw it away. Then clean the drain plug and fit a new washer, prior to refitting it to the sump. Make sure the sump is clean where the washer seats. > Once the drain plug is finger tight, finish the job off by tightening it up properly with a torque wrench to the setting recommended in your workshop manual. It’s well worth using a torque wrench here, as stripped threads in the sump are no fun. |
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| Position the drip tray under the filter. Clean around the filter, then use a strap wrench or a metal cup-type driver to undo it. Don’t try the messy bodger’s stunt of hammering a screwdriver through the cartridge to twist it off. > Prior to fitting, smear a little engine oil on the face of the rubber washer that mates against the crankcases. If the filter fits vertically, you can charge it with a little fresh engine oil. Tighten in accordance with the manual’s suggestion (torque or turns). > With the drain plug and filter fitted you can now replenish the engine oil, either by volume with a jug and funnel or by inspecting the level in the oil window or on the dipstick – depending on the bike you’re working on. |
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| Start the engine and give the bike a minute or so to pump the oil around and also fill the filter. Stop the engine, let the oil run down and again inspect the level, making sure the bike is upright and you’re on level ground. Top up as necessary. > Use liquid paper or a paint pen to mark the drain plug and filter and put dots adjacent to those marks on the engine case. You can check them in a day or two to make sure neither are coming undone and your handiwork is intact. > Take the opportunity to clean and inspect the engine while you’ve got the bodywork off, then refit and ride. Make a note of the mileage you made the oil change at so you know when next to change the lubricant. |