Rattle-Can resprays tend to conjure up images of bodged jobs characterised by orange peel and runs, with maybe the odd fly stuck on there for added effect. Preparation and patience, however, get professional results. If you don’t have the cash for a proper paintjob, a DIY refinish using spray cans is a cheap alternative.
You can elevate the job to new levels of proficiency by having your home-done base coats topped off with a professional lacquer job at your local paintshop. Sourcing the correct shade for your bike has never been easier with companies like Bike Colours able to provide a match or mix something up if you supply an unfaded chip from, say, the underside of a tank.
The Morini tank being refinished here has the additional complications of pinstriped contrasting panels – nothing that can’t be dealt with. So assemble your paint and prep supplies and get to work...
Tools For the Job : Abrasive nylon pads. Wet and dry paper. Electric drill. Paint. Filler. Scrapers. Mask. Paint stripper.
Cost : You’d best budget for £80 or so if your workshop supplies don’t stretch to any of the tools or materials listed. Add the same again for lacquering at a pro paintshop if you aren’t going to attempt that yourself.
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| Degrease andwash the item you’re going to paint prior to setting to it with the paint stripper. The whole job will work much better if the part isn’t being contaminated by the grease and dirt that’s built up over the years. >> Take digital pics and make accurate measurements of any painted panels or logo positions, eliminating guesswork later on. You could also trace them using something like Aslan or Frisket reusable film. Ask your paint supplies factor. |
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| In a well-ventilated space, apply paint stripper. Today’s over-the-counter stuff has had the methylene chloride taken out so doesn’t work like this old can of Nitromors. Methylene chloride can be bought online but it is hugely toxic. Use outdoors only. >> After a few minutes you’ll see the old paint finally giving up its decadeslong grip on the tank. Carefully deploy scrapers to remove the paint, going to great pains to avoid denting or scratching the bare metal below. >> There’s no point painting over rust so use Jenolite or something similar to kill it off. Professional painters use phosphoric acid, which is the active ingredient in most commercially available rust treatments. |
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| Use nylon abrasive pads by drill or by hand to get the service properly clean and rust-free. Finish off with 1200-grit wet and dry by hand and used wet, then rinse and throughly dry the surface with a hairdryer or heatgun. >> Form a base coat using etch primer, which will adhere to the already keyed surface. Use alternating horizontal and vertical passes of the rattle-can, 20-25cm away from the surface, starting each pass just off the object you’re painting. >> Apply the main colour coat using the same technique as for the primer. Keep the can moving to avoid paint build-up leading to sagging and runs. Don’t rush the job – let the colour build gradually until you reach opacity. |
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| Establish the edges of the panels using masking tape and protect the rest using clean paper. Blow in the panels, first sealing the edges at the tape with light passes. Remove the tape before the paint is totally dry, pulling it away at right angles. >> Let the paint harden for a day or two before attempting to do the pinstriping. Use tram tape unless you’re planning to acquire the years of skill that are required to do it freehand. Mask everything else off as before. >> Decision time. Nowyou can either attempt the lacquer yourself, or go for a more professional and enduring job by going to a commercial painter.We had this one done professionally and stillwound upway ahead of the game |